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By
Martha S. Benedict
Twenty-three years ago when
a friend gave me a barrel of roasted cocoa beans, I thought how much I
liked to eat chocolate--dark rich chocolate. It also started recollections
about chocolate. There were the nickel ice cream cones we bought at the
drug store and consumed listening to the outdoor band concerts on warm
summer Friday nights: Dad ordered strawberry; Mom and I ordered chocolate.
Chocolate came at holiday times. Loft's or Fanny Farmer's chocolate came
as Santa Clauses at Christmas, hearts at Valentine's Day, and bunnies
or fudge and walnut filled eggs at Easter. Uncle George told of sharing
the Hershey bars from Aunt Millie's World War ll care packages with eager
French children. Hot cocoa sparked enthusiasm on cold winter morning,
noon, and night's. Chocolate. Chocolate. Chocolate. As I grew older chocolate
was supposed to be avoided by any teenager who wanted clear skin. That
meant every time I ate it and did not suffer an acne "flower", I got away
with something. People I knew growing up treated eating chocolate like
sharing a secret or "falling off the wagon". This gave the subject additional
caché.
As an herbalist and champion of the plant kingdom, however, I began collecting
information about the brown beans. Could something so universally loved
also be healthy for people? Here is a short encapsulation of findings.
History of Chocolate
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Columbus discovered chocolate on his fourth voyage and made note of it
on the island of Guanaja near Honduras although little became of the encounter.
Cortez was the first European on record to bring the beans to Spain. It
became fashionable throughout Europe after 1615 when Anne, a Spanish princess,
married Louis XIII of France and brought her affection for chocolate with
her to the French court. rom there it spread throughout Europe.
Chocolate beans come from the cacao tree. Archeological indication exists
that cacao has grown in the Amazon and Orinoco River complexes for the
last six thousand years. From this origin the tree was brought both north
and south to the different empires of the Aztec, Toltec, and Mayan populations.
A ztec lore relates that the god, Quetzalcoatl', founder of the race,
designated cacao as a divine gift and used it both to stem fatigue and
provide pleasure. Cacao beans were used as units of exchange. There exist
legends about the proliferation of cacao trees. The Aztecs believed that
a drink of "xocolatl", meaning bitter water, stimulated mental and psychic
awareness. It is in part because Montezuma believed that Quetzalcoatl
had returned to them in the form of Cortez and his soldiers, that Cortez
was so easily taken in and treated well before killing Montezuma and destroying
the cacao-based culture to plunder Aztec gold.
Gradually, by default rather than intent, cacao began being used as a
beverage by the Spanish. They noticed it increased stamina and strength
and did "not lead to drunkenness". But it was bitter. Then some nameless
persons began to Europeanize the substance by adding sugar, cinnamon,
vanilla, aniseed, and pepper. Finally, someone served it hot-hot chocolate.
Now it's beginning to taste familiar! Over the next two hundred years
different European countries made their peace with chocolate and integrated
it into their cuisine and culture. It became so popular there were chocolate
houses similar to Starbuck's all over Europe. The first British factory
opened in 1728.
It was the Swedish botanist, Linnaeus, however, who gave the Latin name
"Theobroma" (theo=god and broma =food) to this beloved substance. "Theo"
meaning god and "broma" meaning food.
Historical Uses of Chocolate
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Historically chocolate has been ascribed for use for the weak and infirm;
as having curative powers; a panacea; curing consumption; consolation
for lovers' misfortunes; upset stomach; hangovers; mild fevers; senility;
phlegmatic temperament; gout; to relieve fatigue; as a diuretic; antiseptic;
for cough, snake bite, burns, wounds; for dry eyes, alopecia; as an emmenogogue,
for pregnancy, and parturation; as a brain stimulant; as an anti-spasmodic;
as a dentifrice. Any of these sound familiar?
Chocolate Composition
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What is in the composition of chocolate that makes it so unique and useful?
Carbohydrates, fat (as cocoa butter that is easily assimilated), ash,
protein, and water comprise chocolate a nutrient dense food that makes
available a high amount of energy per unit weight. It has been included
in astronauts and sports players' diets. Depending upon its form, it contains
400 to 800 calories for 100g (3-½ oz). It is abundant in minerals: magnesium,
potassium, calcium, sodium, zinc, iron, and copper. Add vitamins A, B1,
B2, C, D, E. It contains theobromine, a molecule related to caffeine,
as well as one-fifth the amount of caffeine as coffee. Polyphenols or
flavenoids are anti-oxidants in chocolate.. This is why it doesn't go
rancid. It also contains tyramine and phenylethylamine (PEA). PEA is called
the "love drug". Research exists that allies PEA and its metabolites with
other substances that elevate moods. Several fatty acids act on the canabinoid
and opioid receptors and neurotransmitters in the brain that some researchers
associate with "feeling good".
Personal Use and Observations
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In my acupuncture practice I give roasted cacao beans to women who are
experiencing PMS or are menopausal. I find it very useful for depression
associated with hormone fluctuations. Although this clinical observation
is not supported by research, my patients report relief. I do not eliminate
it for teenagers who come for adolescent skin concerns. I encourage competitive
sports participants to use it as part of their training. Finally, when
people are older or have a wasting disease, have poor appetite and need
to maintain or increase weight, it is invaluable added to a whey protein
powder.
However, there is an obvious difference between what I am recommending
and Hershey Kisses. I do not recommend milk chocolate or mixing refined
sugar with chocolate. Unfortunately this is the form most easily accessible
commercially. Instead, when making cocoa use steamed milk or soymilk and
mix in unsweetened cocoa. Purchase or make your own chocolate delights
without adding refined sugar. Use maple syrup, maple sugar, date sugar,
raw cane sugar, stevia, fructose, dried fruit or sweet fruits such as
persimmons. It's easy to do and delicious. Very dark chocolate is available.
My daughter found 99% chocolate bars on the Internet for me for the holidays
last year. 70% and even 85% chocolate bars are becoming more available.
Happily, as more consumers request unsweetened cocoa and chocolate at
their favorite restaurants and stores, the more available it will become.
Chinese Theory
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In Chinese medicine, it is important to train the palate especially of
children to include and appreciate all the flavors--sour, sweet, pungent,
salty, and bitter. Hot cocoa is a wonderful and easy beverage for a parent
to use to accomplish "bitter". It's amazing how the palate is capable
of becoming educated.
Recipes
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There is a multitude of cookbooks with fabulous chocolate recipes. Read
them for inspiration and modify them to omit refined sugar. Some recipes
work better than others do. Here are a few that have worked for me. Hot
cocoa can be made with heated or steamed milk and pure cocoa powder. Try
it with a little honey and chili powder. I use Droste's, Scharffen Berger,
or Hershey's. Chocolate dipped fresh and dried fruit with the above- listed
sweeteners can be served quickly. My favorites include strawberries, pineapple,
cherries, raspberries, apricots, dates, currants, prunes, and persimmon
wedges. They are so sweet in themselves, the chocolate needs next to no
sweetener. Stuffing nuts-brazil, pecan, walnuts, almonds-- in the dried
fruit multiplies the possibilities. I make a cookie with nut flour, a
variety of sweeteners, and pure chocolate nips mixed with semi-sweet chocolate
morsels. There are very dark chocolate bars including Newman's Own Organics
70% bar and Michel Cluizel's 99% bar. Add shaved bitter chocolate on top
of other dishes containing meat and veggies inspired by the molé of Mexican
cuisine. Finally, I adore organic coconut, fresh or dried, with chocolate,
nuts, and raisins.
I'd welcome hearing from readers
with their ideas and experiments and will print suggestions at the
end of this article on the website.
Martha Serrie Benedict,
M.A., O.M.D., Lac., received her master's degree from Stanford Medical
School and was on the faculty of the University of California's medical
school before she began studies in Taiwan and then mainland China. This
led to her becoming the first non-Asian woman to be certified to practice
Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) in California in 1976. She integrates
Native American medicine, naturopathy, and homeopathy into Chinese and
Western Medicine in her practice in Santa Cruz, CA.
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